Rovos Rail operates several high-end train itineraries; we boarded in Pretoria, just north of Johannesburg, to travel west through South Africa, and then north through Namibia to Walvis Bay on the coast, a journey of ten days.
(The steam engine in the video was just for show at the station – the actual train was powered by diesel and electric power.)
The passenger compartments are very nicely done – each car was salvaged, reconditioned and decorated according to exacting standards of workmanship.
It’s not an historic relic, but rather the dream of a train enthusiast, Rohan Vos, who started the operation twenty-something years ago.
One of our favorite spots was the open observation car at the back of the train.
About 50 travelers were on the trip, here having an off-train sundowner.
Due to mechanical problems, some vandalism on the tracks and scheduling conflicts, travel was delayed or rerouted frequently….. but we nonetheless got to visit all the sights along the way, and ultimately arrived at our destination only a few hours late.
The first and most interesting stop was “The Big Hole” in Kimberley, South Africa, formerly an open-pit and underground diamond mine, the original source for the famed DeBeers Diamond company. It is supposed to be the biggest hole ever dug by hand, at about 700 feet deep and over 1,500 feet wide.
Henry found some beautiful specimens of Botswana banded agates at the associated rock shop…. and we acquired a few, of course.
Fish River Canyon in southern Namibia is the second biggest canyon in the world, after our own Grand Canyon……. Impressive as it is, it just isn’t quite as grand.
Sossusvlei features some of Namibia’s famous sand dunes, a part of the enormous Namib Desert.
Locusts and grasshoppers have been a major problem in southern Namibia lately, with some devastating results for farmers…… dead locusts littering the ground in some places; in other places, they are very much alive.
Included on the journey was an overnight stop and a couple of game drives at Etosha park, around a salt pan in northern Namibia. Here are some of our nature encounters….
Final night on board the train featured a staggering variety of cocktails, many of which we unwisely sampled.
Our fellow passengers were mostly South African, English or Scandinavian. We enjoyed meeting them and sharing travel stories. Only one other American was on the trip. (We think many of our compatriots remain quite cautious about travel.) Del is a bright, charming, funny and curious 93-year-old from California.
She was great fun to be with, and we hope our paths will cross again….. even though her youthful looks and energy make us look pretty creaky in comparison…..
So the rail network finally delivered us to Walvis Bay, where the land portion of our Namibian odyssey will begin!
Emerald Isle to the Norse Lands 