Tasmania

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I am surely not the only person whose earliest memory of “Tasmania” as a place is entirely derived from the Looney Tunes cartoon character, Taz the Tasmanian Devil.

A state in the commonwealth of Australia, Tasmania is a heart-shaped island south of the mainland whose people have an independent streak. Its remoteness leant it an air of mystery, exoticism and wildness…. In reality, it is populated by educated people who mostly live in regular houses with flush toilets in communities with grocery stores and zoning disputes. But it is indeed beautiful there. Clean, neat and sparsely populated with thoughtful citizens who are sincere about keeping it that way.

Here is (somebody else’s) photo of a real Tasmanian devil…..

This cat-like marsupial, rarely-seen, is endangered; their population was severely depleted due to disease several decades ago. We did not see one, but we are helping fund their survival…

The beaches on the north part of the island were reputed to have agates! They do indeed have lots of stones….

….. including just a few specimens of interest.

Other things found on the beach…..

Wallaby tracks!
Beached whale …. Way past its prime…
Big ball of an undetermined stinky substance….. whale poop?
Decent sunset on an otherwise cold rainy afternoon

Friendly people along the way….

The owner of a gravel pit allowed us to spend a few hours scrabbling through piles of material….. after a spirited discussion of the state of the world.
You never know what interesting pieces you might find in a gravel pit!

This lady was cruising through the coastal town of Burnie along with her beloved companion, Charlie Brown.

Boris has a rock/mineral/lapidary shop on the south side of Tasmania. He pointed out some likely spots for agate-hunting.

Virtually every person wanted to talk about the upcoming US election, as they recognize how their own fate is so tightly related to the policies and actions of our country. The presidential debate was aired live throughout Australia, and most people watched it! A news show called Planet America is aired twice a week in Australia, where two well-informed analysts discuss US political events with no apparent partisan bias.

They film in a mock-up of the Oval Office!

It’s humbling and a little embarrassing to realize that people in other countries are often more thoughtful about the impact of our actions than some of our own citizens!

Back to the travelogue…… One area in the heartland of Tasmania featured whimsical mailboxes…

Platypus on the top…. the only one we saw.
Tasmanian tiger…. A species that is extinct, although there is a bit of disagreement about that. A movement is afoot to clone them with some existing genetic residue!
Collection not complete without a kangaroo/wallaby!

Speaking of which, the bouncy marsupials abound in Tasmania too…. These were taking a well-deserved rest after a busy morning.

This tribute to the whales whose numbers were greatly depleted by early settlers is located about as far south as you can go in Tasmania, and hence Australia,

Not far away is the charming rustic shack where we stayed with a much-needed wood stove…. And a gorgeous sunrise view over Hastings Bay.

We ended our sojourn with a few days in Hobart, Tasmania’s capital city of about 200,000 people. It is a beautiful place with a thriving waterfront and a colorful Saturday market.

This is a photo of a photo of the market….. the day we visited, it was pouring rain and cold and windy.

Another prime attraction is the Museum of Old and New Art, or MONA – which was built by a native son who made a fortune – not in tech, but in gambling! It’s an eclectic collection of fascinating and often confusing pieces. It’s well worth a few hours

This display duplicates the digestive process, from feeding right down to elimination. It’s called Cloaca. (We didn’t stay to witness the outcome.)

And so ends our time in Tasmania…..

And indeed farewell to Australia!

It’s been a great time crisscrossing the continent – by air, sea, rail and automobile. One more stop to make before heading home – back to New Zealand and the South Island.

South Island, New Zealand

(This posting contains a number of brief videos; if you would like to view them, you need to click on the title of the post to load the page.)

Better late than never. Yes, we have been home from this trip for just over six weeks….I contemplated not finalizing it with a last blog posting – not because our experiences aren’t worth sharing, but just out of sheer laziness. I will not rest easily, however, until I post a conclusion.

The South Island of Aotearoa is in fact quite beautiful …. Even in the cool and wet weather of very early spring.

The quest for rocks continued as we visited many beaches in our cute 4WD rental…..Fortunately, beaches are fairly easy to find on an island!

Here are some particularly appealing specimens found in Birdling Flats near Christchurch…. (We left them in situ as they were clearly meant to be.)

Obviously not for a serious rock hound…… Without much in the way of agates, the big draw on the South Island is the greenstone known by the Māori as Pounamu. It’s a type of nephrite jade… not as precious as the other type of jade called jadeite. But very special to the Māori and stunning in its own right.

Sometimes the intrepid rock hound is not fast enough to avoid getting icy water in his boots!

Akaroa is a lovely little town not far from the rock beach… colorful and serene when the weather cooperates.

Always game for accommodations with a view!

Mountain ranges run along the spine of the island

Arthur’s Pass was closed for road construction except for very limited windows of time. The delay was no problem at all… we visited with friendly people – both native Kiwis and immigrants – who work together to make Arthur’s Pass a nice place to live and visit.

The Punakaiki Pancake Rocks are on the western shore…. An exhilarating place to see, especially when there’s just a little sleet!

The birds seem to be indifferent to the crashing waves surrounding their nesting sites.

The Hokitika Gorge is home to some small wonders of the natural world…..

The region near Lakes Wanaka and Hawea is a bicycling paradise….. easier for old people to navigate on e-bikes!

The only hiccup was getting lost on the trail…. And having to negotiate a 60-foot vertical drop carrying bicycles!

Back on the east coast, Oamaru bills itself as World Steampunk Headquarters. (FYI, steampunk is a retro artistic/fashion style based on 19th-century industrial design.)

Oamaru is also a pleasant Victorian-era town with early tulips making an appearance on the town square.

Along the coast from Oamaru to Dunedin….

Extraordinary coloring on a cheeky seabird…..

Bluff is a seaport and the southernmost town on the New Zealand mainland. Not a lot there, except a much-photographed signpost…

….and a chain sculpture that has its twin on Stewart Island, just across the Foveaux Strait… symbolizing the tie between the two.

And across the strait to Stewart Island…. On the most turbulent ferry crossing we have ever experienced. (Barf bags readily available and often used……luckily not by yours truly!)

(And understand that iPhone smoothes the video out quite a bit.)

If you head south from Stewart Island, your next stop would be Antarctica!

An arty welcome to the main village of Oban…..

A special glass house in a wildlife reserve on the Island…..

The wildlife reserve – a kiwi bird habitat – is surrounded by a fence and restricted access gate, designed to keep out predators, such as stoats and feral felines…..

Hoped to see some kiwis feeding at night, but unfortunately, the only mammal visible was… a wild domestic-type cat. Waaah. (The authorities were notified of the intruder.)

Here, however, is the delightful bird known as a tui. Not a great video, but they are hard to get close to, and the film captures a snippet of its unusual sounds.

They are striking birds… here is a photo of a photo of a tui in full sunlight:

!!!!!!!!!!!!

The final stop on the South Island was Queenstown, quite a tourist-y place…. With a scenic gondola ride, go-kart course and schlock-y city center – none of which takes away from its spectacular location on a lake in the mountains.

Lastly, here are a few cultural/food discoveries from the road…..

Hand pies ……

Whitebait fritters….. little teeny disgusting fish, fried up whole with eggs. Not for everyone.

KFC is all around the world – had to try some. Conclusion – just like the original. Greasy, salty and tasty.

In Hokitika, a shop that caters to South Africans! Gotta love Ouma’s rusks with your morning coffee.

One of the finest discoveries in an op shop (thrift store, in case you’ve forgotten)……

Yes, pipe cleaners…. And absolutely fabulous! Unfortunately, not a size either of us could wear.

Gosh, a lot of turf covered in our four months Down Under! Adventures both stirring and commonplace, but all in all rewarding. The more we travel, the more we are humbled at our own ignorance. And thrilled to have the chance to see, hear and understand just a little more.

Arthur Frommer… the originator of $5 per day travel back in the 50s and 60s….. just died at age 95. Probably sharp as a tack to the end….. He believed travel to be transformative – critical to the process of learning and growing as a human being and recognizing our relationship to the planet and its other inhabitants. For him as for us, the most genuine experiences don’t require elaborate planning and need not be expensive. (Although a splurge now and then doesn’t hurt….) Kudos to him and his legacy.

Henry is a master of airplane-window photography. This closing image was taken on the flight from Auckland back to Texas.

We will mostly be home until the spring, with a foray next summer to Ireland and Scandinavia.

Best wishes to you all for a happy and peaceful holiday season, and a new year filled with hope.

Far Horizons

Of the gladdest moments in human life, methinks, is the departure upon a distant journey into unknown lands. Shaking off with one mighty effort the fetters of Habit, the leaden weight of Routine, the cloak of many Cares and the slavery of Home, man feels once more happy. The blood flows with the fast circulation of childhood. Excitement lends unwonted vigor to the muscles, and the sudden sense of freedom adds a cubit to the mental stature. Afresh dawns the morn of life; again the bright world is beautiful to the eye, and the glorious face of nature gladdens the soul. A journey, in fact, appeals to Imagination, to Memory, to Hope – the three sister Graces of our moral being.

Sir Richard Francis Burton

This quote is not from the actor, but from the 19th-century adventurer, archaeologist, linguist and author of the same name….. who had a fascinating life that we won’t even attempt to recap here. Perhaps a little overblown, but the quote captures in spirit the thrill of embarking on a new adventure.

National Geographic has organized a trip in partnership with the Wall Street Journal called “The Future of Everything”, traveling to centers of innovation and creativity across the globe. We start in Seattle, Washington.

Fittingly, we transition from our visit a few weeks ago to the chilly northern climes with a stay at Seattle’s Arctic Club Hotel. It was originally a private club formed in 1907 by a bunch of white men who “struck it rich” in the Klondike gold fields….. more probably from selling shovels to the prospectors rather than panning gold themselves. It is a very cool historic property now, with lots of charm and an arctic critter or two….

What’s that? Oh, a little polar bear from a folded towel on the bed!
Walruses on the facade of the building
A Negroni in the “polar bar”…. Get it?
Another walrus on the lobby floor….

A great view of massive Mount Rainier…..

Seattle has a vibrant Chinatown/Japantown/Little Saigon area…

….. with wonderful dim sum eateries….

Also several reminders of a sorrowful chapter in American history – the internment en masse of American citizens of Japanese ancestry during World War II..

A lot to read right now, but if you have time, please do so – understanding this commentary was written 83 years ago about the imprisonment of American citizens in America solely by reason of their national origin……

……. And now we have transferred to the pre-departure hotel, collected our travel documents and successfully tested negative for Covid…..will meet fellow travelers and the experts that will accompany us on our journey at dinner tonight.

For those of you on his distribution list, Henry will as usual be sending satellite notifications by email as we reach each significant destination.

Tomorrow morning we head to….. Kyoto, Japan.

*******The header art may be familiar if you visited Epcot Center in Orlando in the 1980s …. The artist is Robert McCall and the mural – entitled “The Prologue and the Promise” – was an optimistic future vision created for Epcot’s Horizon pavilion. He perhaps naively believed that humankind would reach upward and outward to sustainable growth and enlightenment as it learned more about the natural world we inhabit. Hopefully what we see and hear over the weeks to come will reinforce this view!*******

Kyoto, Japan

(Make sure you click on the header of this posting so you can view the videos!)

Not sure how the Japanese have positioned themselves for innovation in the future….. but they certainly have done a lot of innovating in the past! Sometimes a solution is created where many never even saw an urgent need – such as delivering sushi efficiently to the end consumer…..

Complete with a grateful bow at the end!

Lots of fun, but the consumer ends up consuming much more than originally intended – enhancing revenues for the sushi-shop owner.

Another amazing innovation that is not commonly seen outside Japan – the toilet that washes, dries, perfumes and anoints one’s backside, obviating the need for such pedestrian devices as toilet paper.

An adjunct to this – a device installed next to the toilet that generates white noise to mask the sounds associated with normal bathroom activities….

Apparently some Japanese people would repeatedly flush the toilet to “drown” the sounds of elimination….. now many gallons of water are conserved through this simple expediency!

Japan is also credited with – not so much inventing, but mass-producing and popularizing – many other things. (Think Casio quartz digital watches, the Prius hybrid car, 1980s total quality initiatives (aided by American Edward Deming) and on and on.) Amazing as these developments are, the most compelling impression of Japanese culture is not so much the spirit of innovation as its devotion to beauty and harmony….. vividly evident in:

A simple room-service meal
The lines of a pagoda in a pristine garden setting
A colorful embroidered panel
A display of sake (rice wine) drums
A gorgeous kimono

Exquisite ceramics created through painstaking processes….

A fascinating device used to make decorative braids….

The deliberate elegance of a geisha dance…

Intimidated by the prospect of having my photo taken with one of these meticulously-made-up performers, I did what uncomfortable people often do……

Fortunately, the young lady was so tickled that she had a hard time maintaining her carefully-cultivated composure for another photo!

Given the artistic outpourings all around, visitors are encouraged to try their hand at creating their own things of beauty…..

Gold-leaf decoration!
Calligraphy!
Artful food arrangement!

The sad part of this type of trip is the brevity of the stay in each exhilarating destination. But we have a lot more ground to cover…. On our way next to Singapore!

Singapore

Arrival in Singapore coincided with National Day… so the country was celebrating 58 years of independence with flyovers and fireworks in Marina Bay…..

(Again, please remember to click on the header of this blog post to see the videos….)

Quite a festive occasion!

A tiny island country, it’s a little smaller than New York City, but holds about 5.7 million people. Its only natural asset is its strategic location along shipping lines between India and China…. That and the ingenuity and vigor of its people!

Singapore has been very busy with reclaiming land from the sea – expanding its land mass by almost 25% – while providing for rising levels due to global warming….. and finding new sustainable sources for water and food, most of which has typically been imported.

Conservation and recycling are an important part of everyday life…

Horticulturists and environmental specialists are looking at inventive ways to grow more food and expand growing areas. In a city of skyscrapers, green spaces abound…. Even 51 stories above the street.

They boast two of the largest greenhouses in the world…

And are also proud of their “super trees” that collect rain water, carbon dioxide and nutrients, then feed them back to plants that release oxygen….. (“Just like real trees,” says Henry!)

An amazing place on so many levels….. including its respect for the origins, faiths and practices of its people. They have four “official” languages and a broad distribution of ethnic populations and religions. In fact, multiculturalism is incorporated in the constitution and shapes national policy!

Although full of modern buildings and sweeping views, Singapore does not feel like a playground for the wealthy, but has beautiful public spaces that everyone can enjoy.

There is so much more to learn about the history of this country, how it attends to the needs and aspirations of its citizens and what it is doing to face the future! We hope to return, but this journey will continue on to Seoul, South Korea.

Seoul, South Korea

With only a single full day in Seoul, there was not much time to do more than walk around…… fortunately finding a local food market with colorful displays, including an array of kimchi. Kimchi is a traditional Korean dish made of fermented vegetables (often cabbage) with a variety of seasonings, sometimes spicy and sometimes mild.

(Again, click on the title of this blog posting so you can view the videos…)

So much fun to watch food preparation from the sidewalk.

Bean sprout pancakes
A refreshing fruit drink on a hot day
Lunch ladies ready to serve up a feast at the counter

Regarding the theme of this trip – the Future of Everything ….. Unfortunately, some of the activities originally planned around this topic have not been possible for one reason or another. Experiencing these places anew is nonetheless a treat!

That said, South Korea has been a hot spot for modern culture in recent years…. With cute cartoon animals and characters….

K-pop (Korean popular music), as typified by BTS…. (And if any of you old people out there have never seen them perform, you should. Pretty amazing.)

And let’s not forget the sensation that was…..

Gangnam style!

Following this brief stop in Seoul, there will be a bit more time to explore the next destination….. the Gobi Desert in Mongolia.

Gobi Desert, Mongolia

This post will have nothing to do with the future of anything, but will depict a bit of the color and vibrance of traditional Mongol nomadic culture. (Again, there will be lots of brief videos in this post…. Please click on the heading to view them!)

The Gobi desert is not really desert, but grassland or steppe. And at this time, it is fresh and green from a recent rain. Gers – circular tents known elsewhere as yurts – are where people and visitors live.

The vistas are vast…. Truly “big sky” country.

Shepherds on motorcycles guide herds of goats toward a watering hole…

Horses…. A pivotal part of the Mongolian lifestyle….roam freely.

A cool way to experience this landscape is on the back of a motorized vehicle… here a nice, quiet electric scooter.

Then, too, there is the “ship of the desert”…..

Naadam is a traditional festival celebrated here….. featuring archery…..

This young woman competed with the men and tied for second place!

Wrestling…..

See the odd jackets they wear for this competition? In the olden days, they wore full tunics….. until a woman sneaked into the tournament and beat one of the favorite male champions! Now they wear an open jacket to insure that will not happen again….

Note that the winner collects a prize of these little sweetened bread cubes that he (or she!) shares with the spectators.

Horses and horsemanship are a key part of the nomadic culture…. Here is a race as part of the Naadam.

Only male horses can participate in these races, as the female mares would otherwise always win!

Festival participants, officials and visitors are encouraged to have a sip of fermented mare’s milk from a communal bowl as part of the proceedings….

It’s more than a little tart, as you can see from Henry’s watering eyes!

Music and dancing are energetic and fun…. Listen carefully to the rhythm and you will hear the cadence of hoof beats!

Throat-singing is a distinctive feature of Mongol music.

Mongolia was a special treat – lively with an intriguing history and welcoming people. Wish we had come here on a road trip a decade or two ago. We even like the hats!

Next up on our schedule is a brief sojourn in Samarkand, Uzbekistan… a little further down the important trade route called the Silk Road.

Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Fun fact – about 94 percent of the cars you see in Uzbekistan will be white Chevys…..

What’s the deal? Daewoo, a South Korean firm, built the largest car manufacturing plant in Central Asia in the 1990s in Uzbekistan in partnership with the government. They since became a part of General Motors…. And now GM Uzbekistan is owned 25% by GM and 75% by the government. Sales are boosted as this same government imposed a large tariff on imports….. consequently, Chevys are ubiquitous here. White is the prevalent color as it stays a bit cooler in the desert heat.

So much for the Future of Capitalism!

Samarkand is located right around the midpoint of the Silk Road, the ancient trade route that connected China with Western Europe, and all points in between.

Most notably traveled by Marco Polo in the 13th century, the Silk Road was a thoroughfare for the exchange of goods, and a pathway for transferring knowledge and culture. Conquerers such as Genghis Kahn and Timur (aka Tamerlane) roughly followed its direction in expanding their domains east and west. Silk Road traders and merchants may also have been responsible for the spread of diseases, such as bubonic plague.

Today in Samarkand, one visits the magnificent mausoleums, mosques and madrasas (places of higher learning) that transport you to those ancient times (hopefully without the plague part). But of course you must be prepared spiritually and physically. You ladies must be sure to cover up all of your offensive parts….. which appears to mean all of them.

Quite a stirring sight, even from behind a veil…..

It’s not easy to get here, so the sites of interest are usually refreshingly uncrowded.
Boys can wear whatever they want!

Locals visit as well as tourists.

Quite striking after dark!

Tamerlane himself is buried here…..

And his tomb gets the finest gold leaf decoration…..

Very nice also from the outside….

The bazaar was fun, but few photos….. just a lovely boule of bread:

And a purchase from an enthusiastic young vendor…..

Now we leave exotic Asia for the Baltic states…. Starting with Estonia.

Tallinn, Estonia

Estonia is proud of its leadership in digitizing administrative government functions and social services. Healthcare, banking, taxes, and welfare programs such as pensions and subsidized child care are all handled with a single identification card and password. (All of which is made easier by Estonia’s socialized system and small size…. 1.3 million people with single-payer medical coverage, a simple tax code and free and universal internet access.) In any event, its tax and legal structure have been designed to be attractive to businesses and start-ups, and it has become a high-tech hub.

Tallinn, the capital city, is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe…..

Estonia has been a part of many empires over the centuries, but gained its current state of independence from the Soviet Union 32 years ago. Remnants of Russian architectural influence are still evident…..

Our time here was short, but we were able to visit the maritime museum and see the pre-World War II submarine Lembit, which was the pride of the Estonian navy.

Henry found a fellow license plate enthusiast and scored a couple of new additions for his collection.

And another sign of an enlightened society…. Free sanitary products for women..

A fairly restful stay here before crossing the Baltic Sea to Helsinki, Finland.

Helsinki and Sápmi (aka Lapland), Finland

Helsinki is a fun city to explore – great spaces dedicated to its spirit of community.

The central train station, constructed in 1919, was designed by Finnish architect Eliel Saarinen in a modern style…..

His son, Eero, gained renown as an architect in the US who designed the famous Gateway Arch in St Louis and the TWA flight center for New York’s JFK airport.

Some fascinating sculptures….

A singing fish surrounded by grand piano shapes and wood piles in front of the Helsinki Music Center.

Junk becomes art….. a jumble of bicycle parts dredged from the bay on display.

Lots of bike lanes and relatively light vehicle traffic make this a comfortable place to take a ride.

A “snack” at a little pond in the park.

The waterfront features a colorful outdoor market.

Cakes of watercolor paint
Smart vendors sold tiny servings of a variety of gorgeous fruit at a ridiculously high price to happy consumers.

An unexpected discovery was the city’s library, a sweeping modern structure on a vast plaza….

The best part was inside. This place functions as a community arts center, a brilliant adaptation of the traditional library to modern times. Meeting rooms, art studios and recording studios are available at little to no cost. Even musical instrument rentals are free…

The facility includes banks of sewing machines and all kinds of craft equipment for public use, including this 3-D printer.

Play stations and virtual reality studios… and old-fashioned chess sets that people (even children!) actually use…

And of course there are books (carefully transferred for shelving by little robots)….

And places to enjoy them.

A cafe on the roof includes a sweeping terrace with a fabulous view.

To us, this is the Future of Community, where public spaces not only please the eye, but provide fodder for creativity and connection to fellow citizens!

SÁPMI (LAPLAND)

Sápmi, often called Lapland, a region inhabited by the indigenous Sámi people, includes the northern part of Finland, as well as contiguous parts of Norway, Sweden and Russia. The Sámi are traditionally reindeer herders, although they have been active in many other parts of society. (The Sámi were called Lapps, but they find the terminology offensive, so we will stick with Sámi and the name of their homeland, Sápmi.)

The Sápmi flag….

Our short visit included time at a reindeer farm…

And a performance of the a cappella Sámi singing form known as joiking, characteristically performed with a great deal of energy and quite a lot of volume!

We are continually amazed and delighted at what there is to learn about other places and cultures. But we will return to somewhat familiar territory at our next destination – Reykjavik, Iceland.