Iceland from the Road

Here are some of the things you will notice on a road trip in Iceland.

Well, first and foremost …..

BREATH-TAKING SCENERY

Of course, more of this later..

You will also see…….

WATERFALLS

Mountainous terrain + glaciers + plenty of water = lots of waterfalls.

It’s a pity because after a while, you simply don’t notice any more just how spectacular they are.

Did I mention……

GLACIERS?

About 11 percent of Iceland’s land area is covered by glaciers. Lots of people like to hike or take a boat ride to see them up close.

One thing you will not see is…

TREES!

Iceland was first settled in about the 9th century by Norwegians….. and one of the first things they did was to clear those pesky trees to make way for raising livestock and planting crops. What they did not appreciate is that poor soil and a harsh climate would inhibit natural regrowth, and the island was stripped of trees in only about 3 centuries.

To be fair, there are significant reforestation and soil conservation efforts under way, but they are up against so many years of neglect. It would be easy to become discouraged. As one Icelander pointed out to Henry, it can take 17 years for a seedling to grow to just shoulder height….. to which the wise forester replied, “The tree you don’t plant will never grow at all.”

And although not actual trees, you do see a lot of upside-down driftwood (most of which we are told comes from Russia) used as decoration or signposts…

And then there are the descendants of the livestock the Norwegians were so anxious to establish here….

SHEEP

Sheep are everywhere. There are more than twice as many sheep as people in Iceland.

At this time of year, the adult females always have two babies with them (don’t ask about other seasons….. lamb is a very popular dish here).

During the frequent rainy, cold and/or windy weather, they get a little shelter in hollows in the hillsides….

In addition to providing meat, the sheep produce wool which is most popularly used for knitting….

ICELANDIC SWEATERS or LOPAPEYSA

Knitting has always been a pastime in Iceland – a good way for both men and women and even children to spend the long winter nights. People have knitted here for hundreds of years, but the lopapeysa gained popularity in the mid-20th century, possibly as a symbol of Icelandic identity after it gained its independence from Denmark in 1944.

Even Jesus is depicted wearing one on an altarpiece in a Christian church on Flatey Island…

Getting back to the after-effects of deforestation, one bit of flora you see all over Iceland is …..

LUPINE (pronounced loop-en in English)

After World War II, Iceland decided to try to reinvigorate the vegetation which had been destroyed in the past by finding new plants and trees that could establish quickly and hold and nourish the soil. Its Forest Service director went to Alaska and brought back several species, most notably the Alaskan lupine, which was introduced in 1945.

A pretty flower – not unlike the Texas bluebonnet on steroids – it has spread all over the country. And although it has been wildly successful in enriching the soil, there are Icelanders who consider it an invasive species and are dedicated to eradicating it from many areas. Love it or hate it, lupine has become a distinctive part of the landscape.

Another part of the scenery….

TURF HOUSES

With a lack of lumber following deforestation, Icelanders began using turf in building (the above dating to the 12th century). Turf provides good insulation in a cold environment, and was abundant in inhabited areas.

More from the road later!

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